Los Frailes to Ensenada de los Muertos

So we couldn’t relax in Cabo and we ended up not relaxing in Los Frailes due to the rolling swells, so we were hoping that Los Muertos would allow us a little rest and relaxation.  Boy did it ever.

Los Muertos, or as the city developers would like us all to now call it, Bahia de los Suenos (Bay of Dreams), provides a large anchorage, a beautiful, white, sandy beach, a couple of restaurants and a resort which rivals anything you’d have seen in Cabo.  We had such a blast here.

Thanks to the Ha-Ha contingency anchored before us, we knew that there was a golf club restaurant (NE side of the anchorage) with a dinghy dock where we could enjoy a beer and some Mexican/American dishes.  I had Fajitas de Cameron (shrimp fajita) for about 130 pesos and Dave had a Hamborgesa con queso for 95 pesos.  Although still American prices you couldn’t beat the view from the open veranda.  The Sea of Cortez guidebook that we’re using calls this restaurant “El Cardon” (which would have been a great picture to send to a friend of mine with the last name Cardon), however, with the new golf course, the restaurant has changed names (of course, I can’t remember the new name…doh…I blame the beer I enjoyed).

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View from the restaurant formally known as “El Cardon.”

We walked along the beach from the golf restaurant and discovered various turtle egg nests roped off with caution signs.  During the day volunteers drive their ATVs down to the beach and check to see if the eggs are hatching, at which point they will help the little tortuga de los ninos out to the shore. Without help, sometimes they head further inland and die or are eaten by the spying seagulls.  I kept hoping we’d see some of the eggs hatch, but no luck.

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Dave, don’t eat the turtles!

At the opposite end of the beach from the golf restaurant is the GranSuenos resort.  Part of the resort is a Bar and Grill that serves fabulous margaritas ($6 USD or $8 if you accidentally ask for the “”special margarita.” The special is not a happy hour special as one of our friends thought they were asking for, but instead, you get a pricier tequila).  The biggest attraction for this restaurant is the upstairs model train display.  Pretty extensive and just all and all cool to see.  They also have various video games and board games to play.  They cater to the resort guests, but were also happy to serve us cruisers that popped up at all hours of the day.  We were told that the nachos were fabulous, to which we ordered, loved and spread the word about.  We think a good majority of us ordered the nachos, because by the third day we were there, the restaurant had run out of cheese. 

We were lucky enough to be in Los Muertos when there were only 10 people at the resort, so we basically ran around and explored the sprawling grounds like we owned the place and the staff basically ignored us as long as we bought some food and weren’t jumping into the pools.  We heard someone utilized one of the many hot tubs in the evening when the resort guests were out eating…but we’re not naming names.  The resort is magnificent and we heard is about $300 USD a night.  It’s pretty wonderful there…I’d be tempted to try it out as a guest and not just as a moocher.

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Entrance to the GranSuenos (L) and one of the resort’s suites with it’s own pool and hot tub (R).

But enough about the resort, the anchorage is fabulous as well. The wind picks up quite a bit throughout the afternoon and evening (NW winds while we were there), but the water stays flat calm.  There’s lots of jumping fish and Bob on s/v Navigo and Dave went about in their dinghies to see about snorkeling and catching some fish.  There’s so much wildlife in this anchorage that I saw a pod of dolphins come right through one morning and  Dave and I saw a live seahorse attached to our swim ladder.  Unfortunately, neither of us thought about taking it’s picture, so you’ll just have to believe us.

Besides friends on s/v Navigo finally catching up to us, we also met back up with s/v Estraillia who we met on the Berkeley dock right before we took off for the Ha-Ha.  We had a great evening all together eating a delicious casserole that Camelia taught me to make and a decadent chocolate tort from Carol on Estraililla. 

We also had a super fun bonfire with some of the other Ha-Ha-ers our second night in Los Muertos.  S/v Panache organized and Keene on s/v ShantiAna built a kick ass bonfire.  We ate from coconuts that had been collected from the anchorage palm trees and Tucker on s/v Convivia played the ukulele while we all sang along (I may have been a little louder than others. What?).  Such a nice evening and great bonding experience with other cruisers.

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Keene from s/v ShantiAna building our bonfire (L) and a group of cruisers around the bonfire eating fresh coconut (R).

Such a life we’re all leading…

Cruiser Tips: Cabo

Not sure if anyone reading is considering a cruising lifestyle, but thought I’d give our two cents regarding tips for the various places we visit.  First edition is for Cabo San Lucus.

1) Get out of Cabo:  Everyone makes this joke, but it’s true. Cruising isn’t really cruising in Cabo.  We’re not big partiers, so Squid Row wasn’t a draw for us, but some of the cruisers in the Ha-Ha liked to have a night of partying and then they hit the seas again for real cruising.  You can’t even really restock your boat here.  So get a taco, have a margarita and get out of dodge.

2) Marina: We stayed one night at the marina for the Ha-Ha rate of $65 USD.  Not sure what the normal rates are, but assume you’re going to pay upwards of $100 for one night.  They say they have internet but it’s practically impossible to actually access their signal. But this is everywhere in Cabo.  All the connections are slow.

There was a laundry room across from where we stay in Dock K.  The two washers and two dryers take quarters ($1.25 USD for a wash, $1.50 USD for the dryer).  The “Original Store” next to the laundry is able to exchange your dollars (USD or Pesos) for quarters.

3) Anchoring: Tie up and lock up everything. Anything you would really be bummed to have go missing should go down below and locked up if you leave your boat,  It’s highly possible that because we were a part of the Ha-Ha crew that everyone with the green Ha-Ha flags were big, red targets; it is also a possibility that the two dinghies that went “missing” during the evening we were all ashore celebrating the end of the Ha-Ha were just tied improperly, BUT, there’s no mistaking that one of the Ha-Ha boats hatches was broken (although, luckily, not broken into) while we were at the awards show.  What I’m trying to say, is that you’ll probably be fine in the anchorage as long as you are smart about your belongings and aware of your surroundings.  Really, just like anywhere else.

We were told by a handful of other cruisers that they were charged a fee for anchoring.  It varied between $15 and $20 USD.  We seemed to have missed the fee charging boats (still not sure if this is the marina or the port captain or some other agency invoking the fee).  The dinghy dock on the other hand (near the main marina office alongside the launch ramp) is $3 USD a day to tie up.  The dock attendant is usually there, but there were times that we showed up and he wasn’t there; in fact, one time we were able to tie up, run a quick errand and get back to our dinghy before the attendant came back so we skirted the fee.  Small pleasures in this expensive town.

Lastly about the anchorage – rolly, rolly, rolly.  Between the pongas and the jet skis you won’t get a moment’s rest during the daylight hours.  The anchorage is fairly open and rolly enough on it’s own, but those damn jet skis. We loathe jet skis.  The cruise ships sit just outside the anchorage, so they block some of the swells, but it’s still pretty uncomfortable.  Also, the boom, boom, boom from the night clubs along the beach will keep you up all night, so invest in some earplugs.

4) Provisions:  Again, not the best place to be restocking your boat, but we did find a super market near the dinghy dock (go up to the main road and turn left.  You’ll see the neon sign and parking lot behind the tourist info booth).  They cater to US tourists and the prices reflect that, but we were able to get some fresh produce, some great, fresh salsa, tortillas and chips. Basically, we live off of the tortillas, so we grabbed a ton. 

5) Internet:  We liked the Cabo Coffee Company (Next to the Town Plaza).  Just buy one of their decently priced drinks/snacks/ice cream and you can sit there all day and surf the internet.  They actually had a really fast connection and download speed, but trying to upload photos was a nightmare.  I eventually got everything posted that I wanted, but it took a good five hours.  It’s a comfy spot, but not that comfy.