Los Frailes to Ensenada de los Muertos

So we couldn’t relax in Cabo and we ended up not relaxing in Los Frailes due to the rolling swells, so we were hoping that Los Muertos would allow us a little rest and relaxation.  Boy did it ever.

Los Muertos, or as the city developers would like us all to now call it, Bahia de los Suenos (Bay of Dreams), provides a large anchorage, a beautiful, white, sandy beach, a couple of restaurants and a resort which rivals anything you’d have seen in Cabo.  We had such a blast here.

Thanks to the Ha-Ha contingency anchored before us, we knew that there was a golf club restaurant (NE side of the anchorage) with a dinghy dock where we could enjoy a beer and some Mexican/American dishes.  I had Fajitas de Cameron (shrimp fajita) for about 130 pesos and Dave had a Hamborgesa con queso for 95 pesos.  Although still American prices you couldn’t beat the view from the open veranda.  The Sea of Cortez guidebook that we’re using calls this restaurant “El Cardon” (which would have been a great picture to send to a friend of mine with the last name Cardon), however, with the new golf course, the restaurant has changed names (of course, I can’t remember the new name…doh…I blame the beer I enjoyed).

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View from the restaurant formally known as “El Cardon.”

We walked along the beach from the golf restaurant and discovered various turtle egg nests roped off with caution signs.  During the day volunteers drive their ATVs down to the beach and check to see if the eggs are hatching, at which point they will help the little tortuga de los ninos out to the shore. Without help, sometimes they head further inland and die or are eaten by the spying seagulls.  I kept hoping we’d see some of the eggs hatch, but no luck.

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Dave, don’t eat the turtles!

At the opposite end of the beach from the golf restaurant is the GranSuenos resort.  Part of the resort is a Bar and Grill that serves fabulous margaritas ($6 USD or $8 if you accidentally ask for the “”special margarita.” The special is not a happy hour special as one of our friends thought they were asking for, but instead, you get a pricier tequila).  The biggest attraction for this restaurant is the upstairs model train display.  Pretty extensive and just all and all cool to see.  They also have various video games and board games to play.  They cater to the resort guests, but were also happy to serve us cruisers that popped up at all hours of the day.  We were told that the nachos were fabulous, to which we ordered, loved and spread the word about.  We think a good majority of us ordered the nachos, because by the third day we were there, the restaurant had run out of cheese. 

We were lucky enough to be in Los Muertos when there were only 10 people at the resort, so we basically ran around and explored the sprawling grounds like we owned the place and the staff basically ignored us as long as we bought some food and weren’t jumping into the pools.  We heard someone utilized one of the many hot tubs in the evening when the resort guests were out eating…but we’re not naming names.  The resort is magnificent and we heard is about $300 USD a night.  It’s pretty wonderful there…I’d be tempted to try it out as a guest and not just as a moocher.

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Entrance to the GranSuenos (L) and one of the resort’s suites with it’s own pool and hot tub (R).

But enough about the resort, the anchorage is fabulous as well. The wind picks up quite a bit throughout the afternoon and evening (NW winds while we were there), but the water stays flat calm.  There’s lots of jumping fish and Bob on s/v Navigo and Dave went about in their dinghies to see about snorkeling and catching some fish.  There’s so much wildlife in this anchorage that I saw a pod of dolphins come right through one morning and  Dave and I saw a live seahorse attached to our swim ladder.  Unfortunately, neither of us thought about taking it’s picture, so you’ll just have to believe us.

Besides friends on s/v Navigo finally catching up to us, we also met back up with s/v Estraillia who we met on the Berkeley dock right before we took off for the Ha-Ha.  We had a great evening all together eating a delicious casserole that Camelia taught me to make and a decadent chocolate tort from Carol on Estraililla. 

We also had a super fun bonfire with some of the other Ha-Ha-ers our second night in Los Muertos.  S/v Panache organized and Keene on s/v ShantiAna built a kick ass bonfire.  We ate from coconuts that had been collected from the anchorage palm trees and Tucker on s/v Convivia played the ukulele while we all sang along (I may have been a little louder than others. What?).  Such a nice evening and great bonding experience with other cruisers.

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Keene from s/v ShantiAna building our bonfire (L) and a group of cruisers around the bonfire eating fresh coconut (R).

Such a life we’re all leading…

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